Bun cha

It’s the perfect combination of sweet and savory.

I nod in the direction of the woman in the red apron and take my place on the square blue plastic chair, knees raised slightly above the height of the stool.

It’s mere seconds between when I sit down to when the plates of food arrive. The first, a jumble of white rice noodles, newly-scissored. The second, greens: lettuce, cilantro, lemon leaves, and mint.

The third is what brings it all together.

A souplike, sweet broth tinted with fish sauce, featuring young underripe papaya, carrot, and, most importantly,

the cha.

Grilled pork is the flavor of the day.

I ease the noodles into the broth, then grab chopsticks full of greens and dunk. Wait a few seconds to let the flavors marry.

They come together in what has to be the greatest lunch around.

Apart from pho, of course.

The dose of reality that arrives with a dose of rice noodles, comes when I pay the bill, and realize I spent $1.85, for the best lunch ever.

And I know I’ll be back.

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