It is late
The proportion of closed shutters to open, populated bars and cafes shifts steadily.
I’m on a quick stroll around the block, in search of a shop with hat dieu (cashews). Late night munchies have hit.
Walking street is closing down
But the hustle is ramping up.
Where do you go?
I can take you anywhere.
The cyclo driver eases alongside as I stroll, his manner affable and his smile up front.
I’m okay, thank you.
What do you need
Massage?
No, thank you, I’m good.
Marijuana?
No, still good.
I smile and keep walking, and eventually this barker knows he’s up the wrong tree.
But a solitary foreigner walking around at midnight is a pretty clear mark. And in the 70 meters between the intersection and the snack shop up ahead, I’m approached by two more hustlers. The first on foot, second on a motorbike.
They are no strangers to this work, their office hours late into the night, intentions somewhat questionable. But hey, it’s a living.
I take you anywhere
I wave him off with another smile.
How about this?
He pulls a small layer of plastic out of his pocket and shows me his bud, dried and ready.
No, thank you. I’m good.
I have whatever you need.
This gives me pause.
Oh, is that so?
You have a pack of cashews, a toothbrush, and a good night’s sleep?
He snorts, gives me a wry smile, and slowly rolls away.
You perfectly described what it can be like when you’re walking down the street late at night in Southeast Asia. I hope you found your cashews. 🙂
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The way you wrote about your quest for hot cashews, well, I now feel like I have been there and experienced it.
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Powerful post! I love your final response!
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I remember the hustlers in Asia relentlessly hounding their marks. Your responses reflect a balance of patience and wit-“I wave him off with another smile.” “You have a pack of cashews, a toothbrush, and a good night’s sleep?”
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The details here are fantastic. I can see all of it. My favorite line: “eventually this barker knows he’s up the wrong tree.” Also notice the role of smiles, both yours and theirs and how that oils the interactions, makes them smoother somehow.
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Your writing always takes us right where you are, no matter how unfamiliar to us. My favorite line was ‘Walking street is closing down
But the hustle is ramping up.’ And your end uses two great words- snort and wry. Finally, I wonder, how do you raise your boys, with all the temptations available?
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Hmmmm. You share interesting or dangerous offerings in these parts. One has to be careful! I like the humor at the end of your slice. You got a bit of a chuckle out of me.
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The structure and dialogue of this piece puts me right there with you. Love the line “this barker knows he’s up the wrong tree” as well as the humour at the end – I can only imagine the hustler being asked for cashews & a toothbrush! Ha!
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Great one. I know all about those hustlers and wonder how many ‘takers’ they get? It’s definitely easier to walk the streets late at night as a male rather than a female.
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